Saturday, February 14, 2015

Himalayan Raid: The Ice Run Trial at World's highest Go-kart track @9000ft

What better way to can there be for a solitary traveler like me to celebrate my birthday midst the grandest of the mountain's elevation point at 9000 feet? Nothing!! The place was chosen. Kufri in Himachal it was!
Me in the Kasauli Hills

Some insights about the place. It was accidentally discovered by the British in 1819. It was once a part of the Kingdom of Nepal. It has the world's highest go-kart track. It receives a very low sunlight and snowfall seems common till late Winters.

It was Wednesday evening when the trip started after a bike wash. The bike looked pretty spanking clean! Now as like a warrior is incomplete without scars, likewise a touring machine without some mud is incomplete.

A short GPS search gave me the route. It was Chandigarh, then to Shimla and then to Kufri. Shimla is connected via rail, although a Narrow Gauge line maintained by the Northern Railways. From there, it is 13kms by road to Kufri. However, I chose a better way to go in style. My beloved steed it was and the best way we like to travel - by road ridden down fast while catching the wind in my hair.
Enroute Chandigarh

Fillinf up somewhere at Haryana. Fuel price Rs56.93/Lit

The road to Chandigarh is the easy highway from North Delhi. However, near the Guru Teg Bahadur memorial, it gets ugly. Lookout for idiots running across the highway. Post that, its a very good stretch to test out your Superbikes and Supercars. Cars were doing easily 120+. Spotted a Triumph 675 Speed Triple, a few Harley's, a couple of RS5s, some pimped up Indian cars and a huge number of KTMs.

This road is so good that your speeds will automatically climb to triple digits, well there are some bad patches though. Very soon, just before Sunset, I managed to cross into Karnal. It was already dark by the time I reached Chandigarh. Hunger was crawling around the corner and to satisfy it satisfyingly, had a Samosa Chaat just opposite the Gurudwara at Ambala.

The road to Shimla is just on the semi-outskirts of Chandigarh. Its a right turn and you go straight ahead bolt on. This road is even better than the Delhi-Chandigarh road. A few kms off and the hills starts with this beautiful road curving around the beautiful foothills of the Himachali Himalayas.

The initial plan was to hit Kaza and come back. I was still thinking inside my helmet as I rode on the beautiful curvaceous road. I had a bit of time, but it was the hills and you never know what happens on the next turn. One town caught my attention and it was Kasauli. Its a cantonment town and around 12 kms off the route. As the lust to be at the place was creeping into my thoughts, the decision was made. I was stopping for the night at Kasauli, remembering from the movie The Kasauli cowboys.
Kasauli at Night

Kasauli in the evening - HDR via phone

It was one of the thinnest mountain road I had ever seen and it was probably in the same state since a long time. After around 10kms or a bit more, I had no potential left to reach Kasauli as the view of the perched town had already mesmerized me. I was camping barely 10meters off the road. The view of the town was really amazing. The photos could not do a bit of justice to that view.

It was Thursday morning now and the chirping of the mountain birds and woken me up. It was really the most beautiful morning I had ever woken up to. The golden sunrays was turning white with a very few clouds under the vast deep blue sky. It was one sunrise to feel and get lost in this beautiful world. I was about to click it but decided to feel the moment rather than click it.

Had a MRE pack for the morning breakfast. And it was already time to leave the place. Packed up my stowaway tent and off I was to Shimla. The shops were still opening and very few tourists were seen. The cold mountain breeze was taking me to heights as I climbed up the swirling roads. Soon I was past Dharampur and on.

Visited Kufri for a bit. Rode a Yak. It was a beautiful animal and so powerful yet so gentle. Visited fun world at Kufri. It hosts the world's highest track at over 9000ft. I could see the black ice and never dared to venture into it. Hardly I knew that I was going to ride in black ice for 10-15kms after sometime.
Kufri
Yaks - The golden one was a She and was beautiful

More Riding... :P

To Kufri

Got out of Kufri and continued my route towards Kaza now. I just wanted to have it all, well in a single venture. Reached Kalpa by evening after crossing Fagu, Theog and Rampur. Camped in the nearby snow laden pines and bushes. Just after Theog, in a small town called Kumarsan, a road emerges to Manali. Its also the place from where the Sutlej river runs parallel to the road. I was not interested in going there as its reserved for the Final Himalan Raid.

It was already eveningish time around 5. The sunsets early as is the sunrise here in these parts. Quickly I set up my tent. I had brought all my warm gears and never thought that it would feel less. The temperatures were going low and low. I was amazed on how the Vodafone 2G was working even with the reception from a single tower. The night was uneventful. However, I thought of snow leopards, as they are common in these parts but sadly, I could spot none. After staying awake till 9PM trying to keep the fire burning and cooking a nice meal of Maggi I find a huge Himalayan dog sniffing nearby.
Had a bit of initial problems with the fire I lit in front of my tent.

Firstly I was scared to death on seeing it. It really seemed something else in that darkness and white snow with the bright moonlight in a crystal clear sky. In all that cold, my phone was out with just 8% batt remaining. That was all due to my tries to keep everyone updated via phone and facebook. I so wanted to pet the poor dog but discarded the idea.

After putting the phone on charge from the battery, I doze off in the cold ground of my tent all locked up to wake up to a another beautiful Himalayan morning.

It was around 5AM in the morning when the roof of the tent decided to crash-on on me. It startled me to my senses. Well, it had snowed, thank god for not snowing so heavily else I would had been buried alive. It was around 2-3 feel of snow and I had sunk into the snow till my knees. It was a tough walk back to the road somehow just with the tail bag. I was not in a mood to turn around for the tent tarpulin. I left it there. The river was all froze and due to the snow, it was hard to even make out that there was a river there, unless you knew on the first hand.
A Official Raid de Himalayas M800 stuck in the Glacier like snow

Maggi and Bread toast as breakfast

All black ice

Nearly whiteout..

What to do?

Snow laden fallen tree

Visor look through to the black ice'd roads

Went ahead to see my bike covered in snow. Was cleaning it up when I remembered to take a picture.

After an hour of cleaning and struggling with the bike for a bit as it won't start in that cold, I went on to the sleepy town of Moorang. Could not find any shop open to sell me some food so continued on to Spello.

Upon reaching Spello, I was informed that it was useless to go ahead. The roads are blocked due to extreme winter. My hunger was satisfied by a few omlettes and bread, total 4 to be exact. I just wanted to continue on the road. This is the road to China.

After going forward a bit, I found that it was all whiteout in front. The road was nothing but mud and asphalt with small patches of black ice. Took a walk and I find a small abandoned place and it was covered in snow. It was damn beautiful.
Point of Return
Icy roads
Snow on bike

Ek Selfie toh banta hai

Iced in the morning

Dude! WHAT THE F! Its snowing!!

The roads.. the tires...and The Machine.

Covered in snow..

As I saw, there was nothing more to do I turned back. No way I was going to tread anymore on the black ice anymore. While I was going off from the camp site, I couldn't help but got into a trap of black ice. Without experience and knowledge of how to control, I was scared. Nearly fell into the deep valley of Satlej on the left on using the rear brake to stop. The bike turned 180degrees!!
Snow covered stepped hills

More snow..

Even more

Chandigarh

Some town in the valley

Getting clicked by a Icelandic tourist. I remember his last name only.. some sky or ski

knee deep snow walking

Crouched

Posing

Enough done. Thanks for the pics. Now give it back!!

Tasting the snow - my bike

I love the Yaks

Street food for the tourists of Shimla

Beautiful roads

Further more...

At 8000 feet

Sunset while return

That shows my confidence level on the Himalayan roads probably

That shows my confidence level on the Himalayan roads probably

Beautiful perched houses


I started my return journey around 10 in the morning. The Sun was shining bright but it was dangerously cold. By the time I reached back to Shimla, it was nearing 3PM. I was riding faster, owing to the traffic free roads and the practice I received on covering the complete Uttaranchal. Shimla to Chandigarh was tiring however. By the time I reached back to Chandigarh's outskirts it was already around 7.

I stopped for a butt break and for food. I hadn't stopped properly since I left Spello which is close to 400kms other than fuel breaks. Gulped down food at a local small time restaurant named Deluxe near Ambala. By the time they served, I already had dozed off on the table. Upon waking up, the waiter boy was inquisitively looking into my face and asked, are you ill. I just said I was tired. In reality, Fatigue was all over me. By the time I finished my food and got on the bike, it was already 10PM.

Did not want to reach Delhi late night after 4. The roads were pretty awesome and helped much to keep a constant speed on the triple digits. Few trucks & buses were a nuisance and pros in blocking the road. Stopped soon at a Bharat Petroleum station to fill up and use the rest room to freshen up. When I got out, I saw trucks parked in such a great style. No idea how they managed to park that way, sticking tire to tire.

Reached Delhi at around 2:30AM in the morning while it took me another hour to slog up to The Northern Base, Noida. Some how I went up the stairs and dropped on my bed asleep. I realized in the morning that I had forgot to lock the door when the security guard came for an early morning check of the flats.

I learnt a few things in this trip like:
1. Never to brake on the black ice. Its dangerous. Use engine braking. (That's what I figured out)
2. No matter which part of the mountain you are, don't stay behind a bus. People at the rear, vomit a lot.
3. Ice in the refrigerator and naturally occurring ice are very different. Naturally occurring ice, tend to push up your body temperature without the feel of fever. You could be burning at over a 100degrees Fahrenheit and not feel like fever. That's how the human body works.
4. Foreigners can stay on ice and not get frozen. Dunno why.
5. People help a lot. Especially when you ask them to click you. Most photos of me posing were clicked like that.
6. Maggi and Eggs are the best meals you can have in the snow. Its not only filling but very enjoyable.
7. Braking on the snow takes 9 times the effort to stop. There are practically 1/6th the traction available even from the sloppiest surface like a wet tile.
8. Ice chains are useful for the traction on the snow. Still it doesn't provide the traction anything close to normal conditions on asphalt or concrete.
9. Greater the weight of the bike + rider, the better the ice chains work. For bikes, probably using a rope might do the job.
10. You see mud, slush or snow in the mountain region where there are possibilities of snow, make sure your speeds are below 10kmph. Black ice can appear when least expected and mostly go unnoticed.

See that beautiful road leading to this beautiful town buzzing with tourists

Beautiful curves

Sunset on the  Himalayan Terrain

Sunset on the  Himalayan Terrain

The Map

After the toll - Towards Delhi at Night

Finally back at Delhi

Sunday, January 11, 2015

Himalayan Raid: Northern Base to Munsiyari

 Another run of the Himalayan Raid completes, marking the very first Himalayan Raid of 2k15. Route: Northern Base (Noida) - Moradabad (Nepal road) - Rampur - Haldani - Bhimtal - Almora - Binsar - Pithoragarh - Munsiyari with heading back via Bageshwar - Almora - Nainital - Kotdwara - Haldwani - Bareilly - Moradabad - Hapur - Northern Base (Noida) Covered over 1700kms in three days.


Date: 8th Jan'15  To 10th Jan'15

It was cold early morning at the Northern Base at Noida around 5am while I was still sifting through the pages of facebook when this totally crazy desire struck me. It was an insatiable desire to see snow. I hadn't slept the night and here I was getting ready to go on a god-knows-how-long ride to see snow. The cold water bath in this cold weather, delayed me a lot. I hope you know what it is to take a bath when the temperature hovers around 5-6 degrees. I took off at around 8 and another hour was spent trying to buy RedBull.

 Northern Base to Munsiyari
By 9 I was on the Ghaziabad-Bareilly highway (also known as The Delhi - Nepal Road by few). It was entirely covered with light fog. The traffic was not so much as generally seen. After a few kms, it subsided enough to go at decent speeds. By Hapur, traffic was almost nil.

Stopped for a bit to drink up a can of the Redbull as I was feeling fatigued. The roads were covered in light fog. Pretty soon I was nearing Moradabad. A check-post appeared on the highway checking for documents for the 2wheelers only. Thought it was good to ask them the route to Nainital, which turns out to be a good idea. There is a road from Moradabad via Kashipur which is in worst of conditions. They suggested me to go via Rampur.

The Nepal Road - Bareilly Expressway
A few more kms from there and there was a huge diversion ahead with on left leading towards Rampur and other Bareilly. As you take the left, the entire scenery of the highway changes to two laned towards Rampur as you cross by the station. There is a road opening towards the left, the Nainital highway, I missed it and continued straight ahead. Landed in a beautiful scape of fields and man made forest. The road was in pretty bad shape with craters formed all over, but the view was compensating.

Somewhere near Rampur railway crossing



Through the backyards of Rampur

Through the backyards of Rampur

After negotiating through the cratered road, crossed a railway crossing to join the Rampur-Nainital Highway. As I was much fatigued, my speeds were less and it was nearly dusk as I reached out towards Haldwani. A few unforseen events like 2 massive accidents that had blocked the highway had also their share of delaying me. Saw the most gruesome accident ever!

It was nearly dark now. The road was filled with trucks and other morons all traveling with their3 high beam on. If that was not enough, there were tractors with huge trailers of sugarcane simply parked on the single laned road. To add up to the harassment, there was a Mandi ahead where the sellers had decided to encroach the road space for their shop space. It was Rudrapur.

Once Rudrapur was over, the road became decent enough and the traffic reduced to a barely 50% thus low jams. I could feel the fog/dew whatever it was. It was simply floating droplets of invisible water and as soon as you strike it, you are all wet and temporarily semi-blinded with the droplets sticking up the visor. Somehow continued, but soon decided to stop at the very first hotel/lodge I see enroute.

Stopped at the first few hotels and enquired the rates, which were 2200 per person, I being alone had to pay 2200 for the night. I decided to continue into Haldani city and take up a hotel there. I had heard that they were cheaper. Sure enough, as I came into Haldwani, just before the left turn towards Kotdwara there is a dharamshala. Now, as the thumb rule goes, where ever there is a dharamshala, the hotel rates dips. Got myself a decent hotel for 250bucks a night along with Tv and heater and covered parking. Now thats a steal. Enquired for food and was informed that near the degree college towards Kotdwara, infront of Punjabi Rasoi, you get tandoori fish, best local delicacy. Sure enough it was appetizing.

Inquired for snow nearby to the locals and I was informed that Nainital doesn't have snow however the areas beyond Almora may be having snow along with the nearby areas like Mukteshwar and others. Got my hopes high and tried confirming the next day's destination for snow. Binsar seemed a better bet then and was finalized.
The Bunsen Burner

Tasty Kachodi chat - one of the best I tasted in the country

Soft soft round round.................Gulab Jamuns :P

The next morning, I roamed around for an hour. I soon realized that that these towns woke up late around 11AM. I could not be there then. Ventured out to have breakfast and fix up my glasses (the screws had come off). The shop nearby served the local delicacy of kachodi chat and big sized gulab jamuns prepared on a bunsen burner because using the gas stove was too mainstream.

Pretty soon I was off towards Kotdwara from Haldwani. Climbing the curves of the foothills of himalayas were refreshing. Turned towards Bhimtal on the right and went towards Bhowali bypassing Nainital. Reached Almora soon and enquired about snow, to be informed that there are no snow at Almora or anywhere nearby. The guy even crossed the road, looked briefly over the mountains and informed there is no snow either at Mukteswar and other places I left behind.

I continued towards Binsar. Was informed again that there is now snow and was told that there may be snow towards Pithoragarh. The roads were very smooth and the traffic was less than minimal. Being a work day, I guess, it was only the locals around. Not much of tourists.

Every village I went, I had only one question to the locals. Where is the snow around? to which the replies were almost the same. You will get snow ahead. There were a feet of snow last week but now there is nothing due to the rain. And I would continue straight ahead. Around 3PM I was exactly 10kms from Munsiyari and was really dejected upon knowing there is no molecule of snow ahead left due to the rain/drizzle. Went ahead a bit and something caught my eye. There was some woods beside and something was shining. Well, I had finally found snow!! But the state of the snow was very dirty. The mission for the trip was snow, and I had found it. Although it was one of the dirtiest snow heap ever, my mission was thus complete.

As my mind swayed to the sun, I was startled to find that it was 3:30. I desperately wanted to reach back Nainital for the night. The roads were empty, but the asphalt layer were bad from Munsiyari to Pithoragarh. Stopped for some quick view to quench the thirst near Kabarkhan. The last glimpse towards the snow covered peaks.

Somewhere on the road

Ek selfie to banta hai

The view.. mesmerizing!!

Here I inquired the name of the mountain to which I got a reply of "This is Himalayas". Everyone answered the same and some even swore to God that it was Himalayas and the snow peaks were China. I had nothing more to ask, as I had got my answer. These simple folks had no idea of the peaks around them.
Vishvanath River



Almora view

The rope bridge

Somewhere near Pithorgarh



The view from Kabarkhan

Near Binsar
I was so glad while returning that there was not a single vechicle plying along side me. As a result, I was free to go faster on those curves. You need to respect the curves to come out alive. I was watching the sun go down from a corner of the eye. Bought some local sweets at the outskirts of Almora. I could smell the sweet aroma of these sweets of Almora from the distant curves around the hills. I am a great foodie and specialize at finding food with just smelling from a distant. At home, I used to be a menace, as you know, you can never hide the aroma. Hope you got the point :D :D

Rivers run along the roadside


It was around 6 when I reached the Bhimtal-Nainital diversion. Took a right towards Nainital. I was traveling fast. These Himalayan raids have made me faster onthis terrain. Could easily maintain an average speed of 70-100 on even the curves. Thanks to the roads.

Ahh yes... they are parallel..



Binsar



Around 6:30 I finally made it to the point from where Nainital was visible. Continued further. The lake was a great view. Clicked a few shots from the phone, in a desire to compile them into somewhat of an HDR. The continuous shot was now a boon.




Nainital lake in the evening


First view of Nainital

First view with sunset..

The logo looks good

The lake of Nainital

The lake of Nainital

The lake of Nainital

The lake of Nainital

The lake of Nainital - from height

The lake of Nainital - further high

Asked around the way to Haldwani to some policemen loitering around. Was informed that I had to go around to Masjid road to get on to Kotdwara road as from 6PM to 8PM it was one way. They also asked if I could drop one of their seniors to Kotdwara as he had a train to Dehradun. I agreed. As the senior policeman climbed on the rear seat of the machine, he requested me to get to Kotdwara as fast as possible. I told, I will get you there, but please don't challan me. His short laugh (big mistake on his part) was the approval.

The curves were steepy at places with no lights. The oncoming vehicles were on full beam, frying up my retina for a few seconds. However, we reached Kotdwara railway station to be informed that the train just left, around half a minute back. The policeman, with a very heavy heart and a scared-to-shit face asked me again to drop to Haldwani station. I agreed. The roads ahead were full of fog. However, I managed to steer though that dense fog and reached Haldwani station before the train could. As I dropped him, I could see that he broke a lot of sweat as he accompanied me on the rear seat, in that cold weather.

After dropping him, I steered my way through the traffic of buses who had parked right on the road, to leave no place for a bike, well in its right mind. For people like us, we can go through anything and anywhere, well almost. The Puneri/Mumbaiya practice was handy here. I reached a takeaway chicken shop nearby "Chic-in" and ordered their specialty dish with jeera rice. Checked into the same hotel as yesterday.

The chicken was awesomely made with cream. It was a whitish chicken gravy and tasted way better than it looked.

The next morning I was out of the hotel to reach Delhi. A friend from Gujrat had come to Bareilly and I decided to visit him. Haldwani to Bareilly straight was great with a few bad patches in between. My phone which I had not charged since 7th evening was now going low on charge, lurking around 5%. A few photographs enroute and I was left stunned aback at Bareilly. As I reached Bareilly, I found the phone dead while trying to call my friend.
Return..


I continued from Bareilly towards Delhi on the Express way or The Nepal road. The road was really awesome. I had traveled on this very road on my recent travel to Baitada, Nepal. As I neared Hapur, I wanted to visit Hansi but no one around knew the way. With a dejected heart came back to my Northern Base. The highway ride could be summarized as 300kms of awesomeness and 50kms of kick-shit traffic, just near Ghaziabad.

I reached Noida at round 2PM on 10th Jan'2015. The snow mission was officially over now. The last Redbull was still heart throbbing, pumping energy. I could not feel a single ounce of tiredness and was on the brink of ready to get on another one.

As I lay on my cozy bed, covered in a blanket to fight the cold, all I would say, that these are just practice runs for whats about to come. The real adventure begins this June 2015.




Amidst the Jungle.. The wolf rests

Ek selfie toh banta hai mere yaar

Kosi

Ramganga

The Last RedBull Break

Phonography

Signature shot - Vehicle